YouTube ADDICTION!!

I am going to start a new series on my blog of my favorite YouTube make up gurus. I decided to do this series because although I have been doing make-up for over 10 years I have learned so many great tips and ideas that I feel it is my duty to share these channels with my fellow make-up artist friends as well as anyone else that is into the beauty industry. Not only do these talented artists show you step by step how to recreate day, evening, wedding, celebrity, holiday and runway looks but they also do reviews on their favorite products and tools.

The Channel: Make-Up by Ren Ren

I have been a YouTube subscriber for a few years now and what got me completely addicted was this incredible make-up artist named Ren from Atlanta. When I first started watching Make-up by Ren Ren (http://www.youtube.com/user/MakeupByRenRen ) I learned so much about over the top eyeshadow looks as well as the proper technique of blending bright colored eyeshadows.

How I Got Hooked:

The first look that I recreated was a tiger eye look with orange and brown shadows. For anyone that has ever tried to blend those 2 colors and keep the look wearable knows it is no easy feat. I was able to rock the tiger eye look to my corporate job (Ren is also a corporate girl by day and fierce make-up artist by night) and people loved it.

I watched a few more of Ren’s videos that day and because she made everything seem so simple I immediately subscribed to her channel and became a YouTube addict. THANKS REN!!

Why I Still Watch:

Over the years Ren has concentrated more on natural looks that are more daytime wearable but I continue to watch her channel because of her make-up and beauty product hauls. Hauls are when a guru purchases new products or are sent products from a manufacturer to review on their channel. Many gurus detest the word haul but no one has come up with a better one.

Whenever Ren suggests a new product I want to run out and purchase it which I am sure is true for her hundreds of followers. For example about 2 years ago Ren did a review on the Seya Train case that she purchased at Yasmo.com. If you are a make-up artist looking for a new train case check out Ren’s video where she discusses why she loves the Seya train case and shows all of the amazing features it has. Keep in mind the video is about 2 years old so it may take some effort to find.

BONUS: I totally love the intro to her channel and at the end of each tutorial she shows photos of the look and always does one with a crazy gangster face, too funny!!

The Channel: Panacea 81

 The next channel that I subscribed to was Lauren Luke’s channel, Panacea 81 (http://www.youtube.com/user/panacea81). Like me Lauren is self taught. One day she just started playing around with make-up and decided to film it.

How I Got Hooked:

 I watched a few of her videos and instantly feel in love with her accent and long gorgeous brown hair. Because Lauren was new to the game and decided to learn through trial and error it endeared me to her and I knew that I would also learn new tips through Lauren’s efforts.

Her looks are always amazingly creative and easy to recreate. She loves doing celebrity looks and during the season she does great Halloween looks.

Why I Still Watch:

Over the years Lauren’s skills have definitely improved and soon after she started broadcasting her channel took off and her career skyrocketed. She now has her own make-up line which debuted in New York and sold in US Sephora stores a few years ago. Her newest venture is her make-up brush line which can be purchased through her website (https://laurenluke.com/shop/). I hope to purchase the new brush set soon so that I can do a review on them.

I hope to one day follow in Lauren’s career footsteps because she is really making a name for herself. YOU GO LAUREN!

BONUS: At the end of each tutorial Lauren smiles and says, “Zoom zoom” which is then followed by photos of the look she just created.

This is just the first installment of this series on my favorite make-up gurus. I hope you all will check out these YouTube channels and come back to my blog for more.

Stay Fabulous!!

Rachel Zoe Project – Bah-Nan-Ahs

I found myself watching back to back episodes of season 4 of the Rachel Zoe Project on Bravo! I love that viewers get to watch this time during Rachel’s pregnancy because I think she looks the best she has ever looked. Being 8 months pregnant has given her the weight she really needed to fill out her face and make her look radiant and beautiful. Normally, I think she looks tired and older than she really is when she is stick thin. I just hope that now that she has had the baby she will consider keeping a bit of the weight.

The other thing I noticed that I hadn’t noticed before is that she looks like she has had some Botox in her forehead but not in her chin area where I feel she needs a little something. I guess I never noticed it before because I could only focus on the bags under her eyes, the mark of a true stylist as anyone in the fashion industry knows.

I have to say that I love Rachel and hope to one day follow in her career footsteps but there are definitely a few things that I would do differently.

First, I would like to say that Rachel’s LA style is not really for me. I am an east coast DC girl so I tend to lean more on the conservative side of the fashion spectrum. Rachel loves the ease and flow of the 70s era where I am more of a fan of the 40s, with the structured suits and polished hair and make-up.

Secondly, being an African-American woman I think that Rachel could benefit greatly with more diversity on her staff, you know someone like me. I could guide her through the world of urban fashion. I think that she could use with more influences like Kimora Lee Simmons Baby Phat collection as well as the amazing local DC designers KAS (http://www.kascollectioninc.com/) and Andrew Nowell Menswear (http://www.andrewnowell.com/). These designers know how to do urban with edge and luxury.

Talking about these last 2 local designers brings me to my final point of what I would do differently from Rachel. I would support local designers and do what I could to elevate their collections to an international level. I believe that someone that has that much influence in the fashion industry should be doing more to seek out amazing local talent and mentoring them to the next level.

In spite of these differences I will say that Rachel and I do have quite a bit in common. We both love the drama and artistry of couture and love high art designers such as the late great Alexander McQueen, Prabal Gurung, and Alexander Wang.
Now back to the gossip of the show.

I adore the new guy Jeremiah that she hired. Not only is he adorable, talented, and has a great eye but he seems like his going to be a great asset to the Zoe team. I feel that he will not become a media whore like Taylor and Brad were. Oh the drama those 2 created in the first 3 seasons. Of course it made for great TV but they were annoying and let the cameras make them loose site of the main goal of styling.

Jeremiah also thinks outside of the box in a thoughtful manner, really wants to please Rachel, and most importantly is willing to learn the fashion industry from the ground up and who better to learn from than the amazing Rachel.

On the other hand Joey is the epitome of every gay stereotype that I hate. I should first say that I started my career as a dancer and have been around gay men all my life. Most of my men friends are gay and I love them all but this Joey character (I call him that because it is so obvious that he is playing a character) is so over the top and flamboyant that it takes every ounce of my strength not to reach through the TV and slap the shit out of him. I liked it better when we only saw him every few episodes sitting quietly doing Rachel’s hair and make-up; interjecting every once in a while on Rachel’s wardrobe. Now that they have decided to make him more of a main character on the show I am seriously considering hulu’ing the show so I can skip all sections he is in.

I know this is just a shot in the dark that the incredible Rachel Zoe would actually read my little blog but on the 1 and a million chance that she does I have 2 pieces of advice for her and the Bravo! producers of The Rachel Zoe Project:

1. Hire me to diversify your staff, I have been in this business for over 15 years and have incredible knowledge of fashion history. I know your favorite color is white but if you don’t diversify your staff people are going to think that you are prejudice and you will never get amazing African American and Latina stars on your client roster. I know you are currently styling Eva Mendes but what other ethnic stars are you styling?

2. Give Joey less air time because I feel that he is offensive to the gay community. So many gay men are doing their best to not become the stereotypical gay man that the hetero world pigeonholes them in. I believe that Joey just sets gay men back on the evolutionary scale.

Stay Fashionable and ABsolutely FABulous!

First Day of DC Fashion Week S/S 2012 - H Street Festival

I had been listening to the weather all week and I heard cold but nothing about rain; so when I woke up this morning to clouds and a drizzle I was not very happy. For the past 3 or 4 years that I have been doing make-up for the H Street Festival it has always been really hot. This is the first time that this event could potentially be rained out.

I forged ahead anyway making sure my make-up looked flawless: soft gold on the lid, soft bronze in the crease, and skin-toned highlighter - Red Ginger 88 palette in matte and shimmer; a touch of bronzer and highlighted with a soft pink – Coastal Scents 8 palette, the amazing Ardell 117 lashes and my MAC Pro Longwear Lipcolour in Passion Preserved.

The outfit was cute but workable for the task at hand, with my jet black skinny jeans, dusty rose tank top, V-neck cable knit long-sleeved Kelly green pullover sweater and black gladiator style peep-toe 3” booties.

When I got to the gym on 10th and H Street NE the models and make-up artists were getting set up and it just felt amazing to be back with my true fashion friends. I came in and got big hugs and kisses from my dear friend and fellow make-up colleague Lynette Evans (seek her out, she’s amazing) and my beautiful friends, Model Coordinator, April Miller (one of the best walkers in the business) and Model, Heather Shue (as tall as she is beautiful). A few moments later, Executive Producer, Jimmy Jones came up behind me and gave me a huge hug and kiss and a bit later the founder of DC Fashion Week and Creative Director of Corjor International, Ean Williams came in. I jumped away from my model to give him a hug and kiss. Aaaahhh I was home!

The make-up look for today was a black smoky eye and a red lip for the female models and a light coverage and powder for the male models. Any make-up artist that has worked DC Fashion Week knows that is the standard make-up vision. It is a look that is striking on the runway and works with the varied skin tones of the models as well as the varied artists that present their collections.

The mood was uplifting and fun as I worked on the 5 models that I glamourized for the show. There was laughing, catching up, and a bit of gossip; all the things that I love about backstage at fashion shows.

We finished right on time and everyone noted that it was cloudy but not raining so the show was going on. I stayed to pack up my kit as the models made their way to the outdoor stage on 12th and H.

I was unable to see the first designer but I made it backstage to the tents in time to see the Corjor collection up close and personal. Ean Williams, Creative Director for Corjor International and Founder of DC Fashion Week, restyled a few of his classic pieces from a previous collection giving them a freshness and modernity. The pieces I have not seen previously were spectacular. He has been playing with shredding for a few seasons but this season Ean took his signature classic silhouettes, shredded 1” strips of chiffon in a neutral palette of chocolate brown and black and layered them to create his pieces. He gave us short and long halter dresses but the piece that blew me away was the cutest pair of black hot pants done in the same shredded style paired with a corseted black satin spaghetti strapped top that was pleated like the top of ball gown - AMAZING!! At the end of the show I told Ean, who also MC’s the shows, that I was dying over the new pieces and he told me that I have not seen anything. He said that the pieces that he will be showing later during DC Fashion Week are over the edge. All I can say to that is, I am holding my breath in anticipation.

The next designer was a DC Fashion Week favorite Renee Frances Designs (http://www.facebook.com/pages/Renee-France-Designs/192230820822696?sk=wall#!/pages/Renee-France-Designs/192230820822696). Renee does knit wear like no one else. She takes traditional crochet shapes and string them into tropical confections. What other designer do you know can create swimwear and beach looks from knitwear fabrics? Renee’s pieces are always bright and fun, but most importantly sexy. I don’t know if Renee grew up in a warm climate but she creates like she was born in Brazil. From photos that I have seen of Brazilian beaches they wear very little and that is exactly what you get when you wear Renee’s bathing suits. She always peppers the collection with adorable crocheted cocktail dress as well as long pants finished with ruffled hems. Great collection as always Renee!

The final designer of the day was a lovely young woman names Elizabeth St. John. I first saw Elizabeth’s collection at last year’s DC Fashion Week S/S collections during the bridal show at the Textile Museum in DC. Elizabeth does incredible evening gowns as well as bridal wear. Her choice of fabrics is impeccable and it is evident that she has a great understanding of the female body and passion for her craft. Today she showed gowns with a high level of sophistication, vibrant colors, and fantastic skill; pretty remarkable for someone so young. I can’t wait to see what she comes up with next.

All in all it was a great day. It didn’t rain and the sun had actually come out by the time the show was over. The festival was in full swing when I left shortly after the show which I think is the mark of a great event. If you get the opportunity to catch this amazing festival next year I high recommend you check it out.

For more information on the other shows being held at the Spring/Summer 2012 DC Fashion Week go to the website: http://dcfashionweek.org/dcfw/index.php/schedules/.

Make sure you come back to my blog later in the week for more backstage scoop and my insights into Spring/Summer 2012 NY Fashion Week.

STAY FABULOUS!!

Ebony Fashion Fair Fall 2008

Being a black woman in fashion I have always made sure to not only study my fashion history but to study my Black Fashion history. When I think of black fashions it always reminds me of church fashion shows from the 40’s when black people were not allowed at mainstream fashion shows. Instead church members hosted lavish fashion events using designers and models from their congregation and community. The music would bumpin’ and the fashions would be fierce.

I have a great understanding of the pioneers of black fashion. Ann Lowe was not only a designer of the Bouvier family at the height of segregation but designed Jacquelyn Bouvier’s wedding dress when she married John F. Kennedy (my favorite President).

I even have a deep appreciation for Sean “Diddy” Combs for bringing urban fashion to the masses at a time when Michael Kors was showing luxury. Of course African American musicians have always influenced stage fashions as well as the fashion in popular culture in their times.

For me there is no greater pioneer of black fashion than Eunice W. Johnson. This amazing black woman that was born in Alabama, college educated, and a mother started the Ebony Fashion Fair over 50 years ago.

Eunice Johnson was able to gain access to some of the greatest couture houses of the 60’s and was able to sit front row of their fashion shows, which would have been virtually impossible in America. As everyone knows France was the leader in fashion for centuries until the 1990’s.

Ms. Johnson actually started the careers of many well known black actors such as Richard Roundtree (that’s right – SHAFT – shut your mouth) and other well known African Americans. Eunice brought black models to European designers who snatched them up at a time when they could barely get work in America, most known is Pat Cleveland who began working Ebony Fashion Fair at the age of 15.

For those that don’t know Ebony Fashion Fair is a traveling fashion show of luxury and couture designs. It was my privilege and honor to once again attend the Ebony Fashion Fair 2008 Fall Show.

This year I decided to see the show at Strathmore Music Center in Bethesda, MD instead of in DC. Strathmore is a beautiful space but I was surprised at the amount of empty seats (which explains the ease of getting a 4th row center seat a week before the show). Last year at Constitution Hall in DC it was standing room only.

Ebony Fashion Fair show is not like any other fashion show; it is a dramatic event using all black models of every color and size. There was even a full figured model from Maryland.

The emcee of the show not only reveals the designers and gives a description of the garments she keeps you laughing and reacting. The models are more than models; they are silent actors that are choreographed through different scenes so that you get to see the clothes from every angle with drama and flair.

Now the clothes are not the run of the mill fashions that most American women are used to seeing; these are high end couture which were just as over the top as the choreography and commentary.

There were furs, feathers, leathers and knits. There were so many amazing designs that I wrote 3 pages of notes on this 2 hours show. In my opinion I could have gone 2 more hours.

There were designs from Italy, Germany, Japan, Argentina and the Virgin Islands as well as designers from America and France.

A few noted designers included Oscar de la Renta, Anna Sui, Carolina Herrera, Luca Luca, Christian Lacroix, Missoni, Valentino, Vivienne Westwood, Thierry Mugler, Yves St. Laurent, Roberto Cavalli, Ungaro, Givenchy, Issey Miyake, and even accessories from Apple Bottom.

With 3 pages of notes it was too difficult to choose my FIERCABULOUS picks, so instead I have added some pictures of my favorites from the program so that you can get a sense of the designer’s and the amazing creations I saw that evening.

AB-FAB Designs FIERCEABULOUS PICKS:

1. This one is my favorite

2. NEED IT - FIERCE!!!

3. Fur on Fur

4. Just a little cocktail frock

5. As seen on Rachel Zoe's show

6. Isn't this the most beautiful model you've ever seen - FIERCEABULOUS!

For more information about Ebony Fashion Fair check out their website: http://www.ebonyfashionfair.com/assembled/history.html

Stay Fashionable!

IS THOM BROWNE THE NEXT BIG THING IN FASHION?

I was turned onto Thom Browne by a co-worker (thanks Amanda). Everyone that I work with knows that I love fashion. I always wear things that are a bit fashion forward for my mostly female Jewish non-profit philanthropic company.

For me every day is a fashion show and every time I leave my house it’s a potential photo op. Take today, for example, I decided to wear my above the knee grey pleated skirt with my red Izod argyle sweater, charcoal grey knee-high wool socks and my suede grey ankle boots that have black suede ties up the back; I know FIERCE!!

When my girl Amanda told me that she saw this designer that was totally outrageous and forwarded me the link to his website I wasn’t sure what to expect. I was immediately thrilled to see another British menswear bespoke designer. Thom is actually an amalgam of my 2 favorite designers Alexander McQueen and Ozwald Boateng.

Thom has the couture like attention to detail in his tailoring just like McQueen and Boateng but he reminds me more of Alexander at the beginning of his career with his need to shock in creating new silhouettes in menswear.

One of my favorite fashion journalists Tim Blanks says and I quote, “They all [the garments] whiffed of Thom’s ongoing Barnum and Bailey assault on masculine convention…” “…a new take on his continuing fascination with male powerlessness…”

You can see a slide show of Thom Browne’s Spring 2009 collection at the link listed below. All I can say is really low slung shorts, you know I love a man in a skirt, and Tennis anyone?

I now these designs are a bit out there for the average American male but keep in mind these outfits can be pulled apart and work with other items like jeans and plain sweaters and shirts to tone them down.

Thom kept the color palette mostly red, white and blue with greys, blacks, and black and white shown toward the end of the collection. The tone on tone check pattern and the English cut of the clothes are amazing. It reminds me of a modern version of the Beatles at the beginning of their careers.

The trenches are definitely covetable and I am crazy about the tennis theme throughout the collection (which was probably what seeped into my mind when picking out my tennis girl outfit today) with the terry cloth arm and headbands as well as the actual tennis racquet details in the fabrication. I can also see that Thom loves a wader length pant.

I know many doubted me when I said that Alexander McQueen would be a major name in fashion over a decade but now McQueen is a major luxury brand. I feel that Thom Browne will have a major voice in menswear but I fear that he will have the same trouble that Ozwald Boateng had breaking into the American market. However I have high hopes for them both.

AB-FAB FIERCEABULOUS PICKS (you have to go to the slide show to see them) http://men.style.com/fashion/collections/S2009MEN/review/TBMEN:

1. The high-waisted pants in slides 20, 36, and 48 are a refreshing new silhouette in menswear

2. For those that know me – I love a man in a skirt so check out slides 21, 29, 30 and 31

3. Slide #4 with the grey window pane 3 piece suit done with shorts – FIERCE!!!

4. All of the sweater vests are amazing. Check slides 11 and 12.

5. I love the navy with white tennis racket trench in slide 17

As a side note I know these guys don’t look too thrilled to be wearing these outfits but actually this is the look that most male models give on the runway.

Stay Fashionable!

DC Fashion Week - Day 4

The H Street Festival on September 20th, 2008 was an opportunity to shed some light on the revitalization of the art & entertainment industries in the developing NE section of DC. The festival showcased international foods, face painting, crafts, and carnival games. But more importantly it was the host of the 9th annual DC Fashion Week fashion show.

There is nothing new to discuss with the make-up because the designers only direction was a smoky eye. As I’ve said in previous entries this look is most designer’s favorite because it give the most impact on the runway. This was the first opportunity that the make-up artists had to use natural light for our applications (*AB-FAB Tip: natural light is the best light for applying make-up which is why my make-up table is in front of a window).

With that said it was also the best lighting to capture Ean Williams’, the director, creative vision for the DC Fashion Week hair looks. Like the make-up artists Ean used different stylist for each show. On this day the looks were achieved by a local H Street salon, which unfortunately I never got the name of.

Ean’s brilliant idea was to have sophisticated wearable looks in order for the over the tip designs to be the true stand out. With the simpler silhouettes he gave us major drama by having textured contrasting hair pieces inserted into the hair in either a sculptural braided bun...

...or in high art up-do’s reminiscent of the look that my favorite designer Alexander McQueen has shown in many a runway show.

Three designers showed at the H Street Festival. Unfortunately I missed the first designer finishing up one of the models make-up, but here are a few photos that I caught while the models where lining up and I was packing up my kit.

The next designer was Diallo. By looking closely at the craftsmanship of the collection I could see that Diallo was a new designer. He only had a few unembellished looks and kept the shapes simple in order to highlight his talent.

The menswear designs were very Rock-n-Roll with silkscreen tees and military style shirts. It was nice to see that the designer kept the audience in mind when selecting his looks for the show. These were looks that young men can relate to.

The looks for women the designer made sure were also very simple and wearable. He selected black and white as the color palette with red and yellow as the accent colors. The only print was a yellow, black, white and red abstract checkerboard pattern which Diallo used as a front panel for the pictured white halter and sheath dresses.

There was also a floor length yellow evening gown layered under a black daisy embroidered lace with a plunging V, strapless neckline and a bright yellow bow tied under the bust.

The trends of the collection were suspenders and ruffles. Diallo used sheer and velvet fabrics and accented a few looks for the runway with opera length gloves.

Good Job Diallo, can’t wait to see your next collection.

The director of DC Fashion Week, Ean Williams, was the last designer to show his collection at the H Street Festival. I believe that Ean used some of the looks from his Spring/Summer 2008 collection because of the jewel tone color of the Fall/Winter 2009 Ean gave us robin’s egg blues (my favorite), turquoise, and gold. Who could blame Ean for showing is Spring/Summer 2008 line on an 80° day and the point of a show is to sell your designs.

Ean used Corjor Sport for the menswear, showing sexy swimwear. White wife beaters were shown in order for the boy short and bikini cut bathing suits to really stand out. There was a blue stripe boy short cut bathing suit as well as navy and white polka dots on a few of the looks. My favorite was the turquois/paisley print boxer cut shorts.

Ean used Corjor Sport and Corjor Couture for the women’s wear designs. From Corjor Sport he used a few of the bathing suit looks that he showed at the 2008 Industry Networking event at Senate Square on September 18th. For the details of these looks see my blog on this event.

The Corjor Couture looks were luxury red-carpet evening gowns which is Ean’s specialty. There was a pleated floor length turquoise, tan and white ombré chiffon gown that sparkled with the blue and turquoise sequin flower accents on the cross strap, sweetheart neckline and all throughout the gown.

There was also a robin’s egg blue silk halter strap ankle length gown that had a matching blue sheer fabric layer that was embellished with blue sequin flower pattern embroidery. The dress gave the wearer shape because of the mirror and beaded Empire waistband.

April Miller, one of the Assistant Directors of DC Fashion Week, was given the most difficult piece of the Corjor Couture collection because anyone that has seen April walk knows she can work any look – SHE FIERECABULOUS.

Ean created an all blue square pattern sequin halter top (tied into a bow) evening gown that had a V-shaped scallop edge hemline that cascaded into a cathedral length train. This is not a look for wall flowers for sure!

Since Ean showed so few looks at the H Street Festival you will have to read about the rest of the collection in my picks because they were all FIERCEABULOUS!

Speaking of which, here are the…

AB-FAB FIERCEABULOUS PICKS:

1. From Diallo’s collection I loved the sheer white embroidered sleeveless day dress. Although this look was shown with a yellow ruffle collar I would have the designer create it without for me. I know that this picture does not do this dress justice but the embroidery detail is what makes this simple silhouette amazing.

2. What girl doesn’t love a great suit? Diallo gave us a modern twist to the tuxedo suit by showing it in heavy, white cotton and edged it in bright yellow on the jacket and again for the traditional stripe down the sides of the tuxedo pant. I am all about the different, the fresh and the new.

3. From Corjor Couture I am a reselecting the strapless irracescent bubble hem dress that I described in my blog on the first day of DC Fashion Week. It’s just that this time I have a great picture of it so you can see all of the incredible details. If there was one look that stood out to me from all of the collections that I saw over the week this is THE coveted dress (don’t forget there was also one in all black – I have a great photo of that one as well but you will have to wait for my blog on the final day of DC Fashion Week for that pic). All I can say is FIERECABULOUS!!

I am sure you get by now that Corjor Couture loves to layer sheer embroidered fabric over silk so my next 3 picks are all ankle length layered silk gowns with sheer fabric. Also they are all halter strap dresses where the only seam is where the silk halter strap meets the top of the dress. With that said, I will only talk about what make them different from each other.

4. This beautiful robin's egg blue gown has matching blue laser cut petals, matching feathers and large crystal beads. 5. This look used contrasting sheer gold fabric layered over a robin's egg blue silk dress. Turquoise and gold were used for the laser cut petals and feathers and instead of large crystals the designer used white pearlized beads to add sparkle to the dress.

6. My favorite of the 3 dresses was the one that had the most couture-hand detail. This incredible design had colorful embroidered flowers stitched into the sheer fabric but the dress truly came alive due to the colored laser cut petals that turned the floral embroidery into 3 dimensional art – FIERECABULOUS!

7. My final pick was again a sheer embroidered fabric over a silk gown but this train length gown had a matching thick, silk, empire waistband, a deep V neckline and a twisted halter tie. Like many of the dresses this one had floral sequin clusters accenting the gown, but what made this one exceptional were the sequin on the halter style ties and the sequin embroidery that became more involved toward the train of the dress included beading.

Stay Fashionable!

DC Fashion Week - Day 3

September 19th, 2008 at the National Press Club marked the 3rd day of DC Fashion Week where 2 of Kazakhstan’s premiere designers showed 2 uniquely different collections.

I will start by talking about the make-up looks. When I arrived at the staging area in the exquisite 14th Street National Press Club building there were a few make-up artists that had started. After setting up my kit I went over to ask the other artists what the look should be and was told that it was a very dramatic smoky eye (designers love this look for the runway) with a twist. The eye should be rimmed in white with the black smoky effect lining the white. They wanted tons of mascara so that the look would be very reminiscent of Twiggy from the 60’s with her trademark invention, “Twiggy’s”.

Once the designers saw the look that the artists had created they decided that the artists did not truly capture the look so they decided to meet to discuss an alternative look. Although this is not an easy look to create it can be done if you have the right brushes and a bit of patience.

While the designers were caucusing (my Tim Gunn word), I decided to start on one of the models that had already done her make-up with a black smoky eye. She knows that at some fashion shows the models may end up having to do their own make-up if there are not enough artists. I thought she did a beautiful job on her make-up but it needed a bit more oomph for the runway, which is exactly what I did. I deepened the eye for more drama and gave her more color for her amazing sculpted cheekbones.

Once I was finished my model (who apparently speaks something like 4 different languages and the official translator for the day – who says models are dumb clothes hangers) went over to the designers to see if she could be of assistance and the designers loved my look – TOO COOL!

(On a side note, while I was doing this beautiful girl’s make-up this very stylist Asian gentleman came over and started speaking to her in Russian and she told me that he may have a role in a movie they are filming in Kazakhstan. I hope it works out for her!!)

As you can see I love doing before and after shots on my models (sometimes with only foundation and powder) for my make-up portfolio so I thought that I would selfishly show a bit of my work here. I should mention that the male model was given to me to create a silver circle on the eye for one of the most dramatic looks of the entire fashion show, but more on that later.

Now on to the FASHION!

P.S. I apologize for the terrible pictures. The space was beautiful but the lighting was not ideal and since I was doing faces and packing up my kit until the moment of the show I was unable to get photos backstage.

The first designer to show was Akkenje Devyatko who boasts that each of her pieces has spirit and its own character. This Asian designer gave us exactly what I think of when I think of Kazakhstan in winter: LAYERS!

However, Akkenje gave us drapey, dramatic, unexpected layers. There were heavy patchwork robe-like coats done in colorful patterned silks and jacquard velvets. Bikinis were surprisingly shown as an under-layer and there were many fabrics used including cottons, silks, velvets, wools and furs.

Akkenje had all of the hot jewel tone colors that everyone will be wearing this Fall and Winter – deep hunter green, eggplant and pumpkin; lots of black and grey with accents in turquoise, pink, true red and yellow. Like many of the New York collections, the designer showed animal print and tartan.

The knits were fantastical and heavily corded wools, capes were trimmed with contrasting fabric, and the evening looks were Egyptian harem style gowns in colors like silver, gold lamé and deep red velvet.

A key word that I wrote in my notes was headgear, which I am sure is necessary for a Kazakhstan winter. Akkenje’s twist on the hood was to style it with a visor, and the woolen knit caps were done oversized. Other headgear examples were colorful scarves and dramatic headdresses.

Near the end of the collection came THE dramatic piece of the evening. The only male model stepped onto the catwalk and the entire audience was abuzz with whispers and applause. The chiseled-body model wore a bright orange corset trimmed with white faux fur, matching thong cut bathing suit bottoms, a bright sparkly orange tulle skirt, and one white fingerless glove; to top it off the entire look was covered with sparkling white tulle fabric and a white silk flower. I was finally able to see the drama of the silver circle eye make-up that I did on this model and was thrilled that I aided the designer in making this pieces true vision realized. Like all great fashion shows there is a wedding dress look and this was Akkenje’s version.

The second collection was Kuralai by Kuralai Nurkadilova who designed the sportswear line for Kazakhstan in the 2008 Beijing Olympics.

This collection was much more wearable for the sophisticated, luxury American audience because the silhouettes were classic and simple. Even the all neutral color palette was simplistic using only black, cream and champagne with an occasional splash of sea foam green. What made this collection amazing were the details, but more on that later.

Kuralai showed over exaggerated 40’s style shoulders on blouses and jackets. There were champagne silk high slit pencil skirts and cropped pants amongst the silk tops and day dresses. One of the main emphases of the collection was on sheer fabric that was seen on many of the looks.

Eveningwear is where Kuralai really showed her couture talents. There was black and sea foam green seaming details geometrically and lovingly placed to either modernize the silhouette or to highlight the curves of a woman’s body transforming each piece into walking art. This detail was also used to make the eye dance across the garment.

Some of my favorite looks of the collection were the beaded embroidered pieces. This amazing, heavy bead work was used on everything from the bodice of an evening gown to handbags, brooches, killer headpieces, and an extraordinary ball skirt. Unfortunately my camera did not do these pieces justice because the large beads that you see are not black but a deep jewel tone sapphire blue (YUMMY) that was all over the Fall/Winter 2009 runways.

One of the bullet points in my notes was Chloe Dao because Kuralai’s attention to a woman’s body reminded me of the looks that Chloe did on season 2 of Project Runway.

AB-FAB FIERCEABULOUS PICKS:

1. From Akkenje’s line one has to remember that theatrical collections are just for the runway and one must dissect the pieces in order to establish the must have items. With that said I loved the champagne iridescent lamé draped, knee length dress. This dress was shown with a heavy black velvet blouse with a gold velvet collar and cuffs but I could see it worn alone with a pair of hells and my full length caramel colored mink coat or paired with a black thin knit cashmere turtleneck sweater, black wool tights and a pair of black ankle or knee high boots. Keeping the rest of your look toned down in all black will not only deemphasize the shiny quality of the dress but it will ensure that the dress is the highlight of the outfit.

2. I love over the top looks so the grey woolen knit piece with a sculptural hood, leg warmers, and tartan print hot shorts also from Akkenje’s collection MUST live in my closet. Like all good stylists I own one of a kind pieces that are mere works of art. I try to incorporate them occasionally into my wardrobe, but they are mostly reserved for very special occasions. Although the hood looks likes the hat Fat Albert’s friend Dumb Donald wore, I would rock it all winter long (sans the visor). Anyone that knows me knows that I am always cold and that I am famous for wearing over the top hats.

The cable knit tank top with separated sleeves would be great paired with jeans or you could even go with work appropriate pants. If you are going to wear this look to work to hide the exposed midriff you will need either a great silk camisole (keeping it in the jewel tone colors of the season) or a button down cotton shirt in a solid color or a pattern, if you dare and I do!
Luckily I am short, thin, and have great legs so a pair of tartan hot shorts would become a staple in my summer wardrobe; with a simple white tee or tank and a pair of simple flats or Keds.

3. Next on the list would have to be the silver beaded hand bags and headdresses from Kuralai’s collection. 4. With so many incredible and coveted pieces in the Kuralai collection (picks 4-8 are all Kuralai’s collection) it was hard to limit my selections but my 4th pick would be a light-weight wool, slim Edwardian cut, black suit with champagne silk trim on the shawl collar and pockets. The same champagne silk fabric was used to extend the short sleeve into a ¾ length sleeve jacket. This look was paired with a “Made in Kazakhstan” t-shirt and one of the oversized beaded bags mentioned in my 3rd pick – FIERECABULOUS!

5. A 50’s style silk cream and sea foam green short sleeve, notch collar swing coat where the designer used her masterful hand to quilt stitch the sea foam sections and to lay the same geometric black seaming detail she used in many of her looks.

6. There was a show stopping evening gown that had a beaded corset top, sheer champagne train length skirt trimmed in champagne silk fabric over a black silk skirt. What made the garment unique were the sheer, silk trimmed pockets that were cut into the sheer top layer of the skirt.
7. Just saying “A black ruffle layered cocktail dress with lace trim” does not do this knee length, red carpet worthy dress enough justice so I hope the photo gives you an idea of this dresses beauty and so you can understand why this is one of my picks.

8. The truly coveted look of this collection for me was the sheer, champagne skirt suit with the sheer shawl collar. There were tonal silk geometric seaming details on the jacket which also had exaggerated 40’s style ¾sleeves where the champagne silk shoulder pads could be seen through the fabric. Because the suit was created in a sheer fabric it was shown over a champagne silk mini dress. The suit came to life when Akkenje added the beaded belt and matching handbag. This look was a modern twist on Sean Young’s “Blade Runner” look that we all associate with style from the 40’s – FIERCEABULOUS!!

Stay fashionable!